Lyra Hat, for people with a BAHA hearing aid.

As some of you may know, I have a BAHA (bone anchored hearing aid). This is a fabulous piece of kit. I have a metal screw in the mastoid bone in my head (which incidently has to be tightened each year so I do occasionally have a screw loose),and my heading aid clips onto this screw. I hear through the bone rather than through my broken ear. This does, however, make it a little difficult wearing hats, as the hearing aid sits proud of my head and anything placed on top of it makes it whistle like a tea kettle on the boil! Lyra Hat is my solution so I'm sharing it here for other people like me. It would also be useful if you wear a ponytail.

Lyra Hat 

©Jen Best 2019


Skills required. This hat is worked in the round from the top down. Working in the round. M1r increases, knit front and back increases. Ability to recognise and work knit and purl stitches as they appear in the work without the need for a written pattern. Casting on and off within the work.

Tension: 14st x 15 rows in pattern over 10cm x 10cm worked in the round. I used 6.5mm double pointed needles for the top and 6.5mm x 40cm circular needle for the main body of the hat. You will need to work a swatch to find the needle size that gives you the correct tension if you want your size to be correct. 

You will also need 1 x 100g (100m) skein of chunkey weight yarn (the sample is knitted in Malabrigo Chunky), stitch marker for keeping track of rounds, yarn needle for sewing in ends, tape measure to determine size and placement of hole..

Small hat has a 45cm circumference unstretched. Large hat has a 51cm circumference unstretched.

Hole is determined by measuring from crown to top of hole. Length of hat is determined by measuring from crown to bottom of ear plus any turn over you want.

Abbreviations: K – knit. P - purl, Kfb - knit into the front and back, m1r - make one stitch right. With the left needle pick up the bar between the stitches from behind. Knit into the front of the stitch, sts - stitches

Cast on 6 stitches. Spread over 3 needles. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place stitch marker at the start of the round.

Knit round

[m1r, K2] for round (9 sts)

Knit round

[m1r, K1] for round (18 sts)

Knit round

[K1, kfb] for round (27sts)

[K2, P1] for round

[K1, kfb, P1] for round (36 sts)

[K2, P2] for round

[K1, kfb, P2] for round (45 sts)

[K2, P3] for round

[K1, kfb, P3] for round (54 sts)

[K2, P4] for round. At this point I changed to circular needles to make it easier to knit.

[K1, kfb, P4] for round (63 sts)

[K2, P5] for round

For small size continue this round until you reach the top of hole 

[K1, kfb, P5] for round (72 sts)

[K2, P6] for round 

For large size continue this round until you reach the top of hole 

Top of hole (mine was 15cm). 

You will need to measure from the top of your crown to the top of where you want your hole

K2, cast off 4 stitches, continue in pattern for rest of the round.

Work the next two rows back and forward. Turn and work the wrong side of the row for the next ‘round’ 

Knit all the knit stitches, purl all the purl stitches. 

Turn and work the right side of the row for the next ‘round’

Knit all the knit stitches and purl all the purl stitches.

K2, cast on 4 sts, continue in pattern for rest of the round. Continue in the round for the remainder of the hat.

Continue in pattern until hat reaches below your ears plus whatever turn over you want (mine was 31cm in total)

Cast off loosely in knit. Weave in ends and block lightly. 



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